GPHG 2025: Luxury Watchmakers Gather in Geneva for Historic Awards

As the year marks the end of the first quarter of this century, the creative sectors are facing numerous challenges, crises, and disruptions...

As the year marks the end of the first quarter of this century, the creative sectors are facing numerous challenges, crises, and disruptions. The realms of art and craftsmanship have been affected by reduced financial support, a lack of skilled workers, and the growing concern of AI taking over.

Nevertheless, the exclusive realm of high-end watchmaking has been quietly enduring the challenges. Every year, the most exquisite timepieces are praised at theGeneva Watch PrizeThe GPHG award event, marking its 25th anniversary in November.

Here, the remarkable expertise and refined talent that characterizes the field will once more come into focus as 90 timepieces and clocks compete for prestigious awards across 15 categories, such as women's, men's, calendar and astronomical, jewelry, and mechanical.

The highest award, referred to as the ‘Aiguille d'Or"Grand Prix" is available to any watch in all categories. Last year, it was won by IWC Schaffhausen's Portugieser Eternal Calendar.

The recipients, selected by a panel of specialists such as watch collectors, watchmakers, journalists, and auctioneers, will be revealed on Thursday, November 13, during the award ceremony held at the Bâtiment des Forces Motrices in Geneva.

This year also celebrates the fifth anniversary of the GPHG Academy, which now includes over 1,000 members, all eager to support the worldwide impact of horology. It holds a key position in the process of selecting watches for competition.

Every spring, members start suggesting suitable watches, pending the brands' approval. During the summer, scholars shortlist six entries per category ahead of the autumn selection process.prizewinners, along with the jury, which consists of Academy members.

Nominated timepieces embark on a global journey

Eighty-four watches and six clocks, selected from the 302 models submitted by 184 brands this year, are traveling around the world ahead of the award ceremony, which is known as the 'Oscars' of horology.

The watches were displayed in Shanghai at the start of October as part of Golden Week, a project dedicated to fostering cultural interactions between the East and the West.

The tour moved to Istanbul from October 15 to 20, featuring an exhibition held in collaboration with the Turkish fashion company Vakko at their private hotel located along the Bosphorus.

The Musée d’Art et d’Histoire in Geneva will host the shortlisted timepieces from October 29 to November 16, 2025, within its historic buildings. A comprehensive cultural engagement initiative will be available to the public and educational institutions as part of this exhibition.

As the closing event of the 2025 tour, Dubai Watch Week will recognize the 2025 winners from November 19 to 23.

Notable timepieces to keep an eye on at the 2025 award event

Six clocks are shortlisted for eachcategory, and a few have already drawn the interest of professionals in the field.

Gérald Genta's Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal is a notable entry in the Ladies' category. Watches vying for this award cannot be excessively decorated, so Genta's design makes an impact through a fiery dial encircled by 137 individually placed fire opals. GPHG's description accurately refers to it as "audacious elegance."

Last year, Van Cleef & Arpels acquired both theLadies' and Ladies' Complication Awardsbut has no listings in either category this year.

In the Men's category, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A has generated significant attention, as it holds the title of the most precise mainspring-driven watch globally. "Although the size and design may not be the most striking features, it's difficult to dispute the accomplishment," notes GPHG Academy member Mark Kauzlarich.

Last year, the accuracy of IWC Schaffhausen's model earned the brand the Aiguille d'Or award. The Portugieser Eternal Calendar is officially acknowledged by Guinness World Records as the "most accurate lunar phase wristwatch."

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• 2024 Geneva Watch Prize: IWC Schaffhausen receives the esteemed Aiguille d’Or Award

Having a theoretical deviation of only one day every 45,361,055 years, the Double Moon display of the Portugieser Eternal Calendar surpasses the previous world record by over 43 million years.

The category of Mechanical Exception, as outlined by GPHG, includes timepieces with unique mechanisms, such as an innovative or complex display, an automaton, a striking or other sound-related function, a particular escapement, a belt-driven movement, or containing another original and/or remarkable horological idea.

Considering this criterion, it's difficult to overlook Louis Vuitton’s Escale au Pont-Neuf pocket watch. Rather than a conventional timepiece, it functions as a work of high art, showcasing the oldest bridge in Paris with intricate and imaginative detail through a bas-relief engraving method. It features 13 moving parts, including a barge carrying Louis Vuitton trunks that gradually open to reveal golden monogrammed flowers. The price is staggering at CHF 3.15 million (€3.4 million).