The initial impression at the World Cheese Awards is the strong aroma. As the 37th edition — a mix of competition and cheese celebration — ...
The initial impression at the World Cheese Awards is the strong aroma.
As the 37th edition — a mix of competition and cheese celebration — began in Switzerland on Thursday, some visitors might hope the selections had more holes. With descriptions of smells ranging from "stinky socks" to "sick dog," it's clearly a festival — and a test — for the nose as much as for the mouth, fingers, and eyes.
Welcome to sensory overload.
Wine enthusiasts, food specialists, and inquisitive shoppers gathered at the three-day gathering in a nation where cheese is considered both sustenance and tradition. The opening day began with a contest showcasing more than 5,200 types of cheese, almost one-fifth hailing from Switzerland. Approximately 46 nations participated, marking a new high for entries from countries ranging from Australia to Austria, and Bulgaria to Brazil.
Every item displayed in the same Bern exhibition hall created a unique mix of smells. However, after moving past this combination of odors, the visual appeal, taste, and distinct fragrances of the cheeses became tempting.
From "Stinking Bishop" to camel milk cheese
John Farrand, the managing director of the Guild of Fine Food in Britain, who organizes the event, mentions that some individuals who claim they "don't like cheese, it's that smelly thing" simply need to spend more time and explore the wide range of options available.
I would take them and sit down with them, guiding them through the journey of cheese," he said. "I often hear people say on a whim, 'I don't like blue cheese,' but that's really not possible. There's such a wide variety of blue cheese from one end to the other,"—Farrand gestured around the hall—"there's always a blue cheese that someone will enjoy.
He spoke enthusiastically about a 120-kg (265-pound) wheel of cheese that teams brought in and "broke" — or sliced open — releasing a strong wave of smell.
The scent of this Emmentaler suddenly caught me," Farrand said. "This is the first time this cheese has shown its true potential, and the aroma... it really makes you hungry.
Some people might look down on bacteria-ripened "bleu" cheeses or find the pungent smells of varieties such as Limberger, Taleggio, "Stinking Bishop," and Époisses de Bourgogne — a Burgundy product known to have been Napoleon's favorite — so foul-smelling that an urban myth suggests it is prohibited on public transportation in France.
Some people may find it difficult to overcome their hesitation in trying cheese made from a camel (or buffalo or donkey), or may feel uncomfortable with unpasteurized or soft cheeses. More daring tasters, however, will go for the creamiest or moldiest options, seeking out the richest, most buttery, or meaty varieties available.
For the judges, there is no such hesitation: it's more about examination, enjoyment, critique, and interest.
Stringent guidelines for magistrates and media personnel
Numerous judges wearing yellow aprons surrounded the rows of long, numbered rectangular tables before starting to eat. They cut slices from firm cheeses and brought them to their noses, or used spreaders to pick up soft cheeses, examining their texture and tasting them by licking or letting them drip onto their tongues.
The judging area was marked by a low fence and ropes, with security personnel monitoring the site. Reporters were permitted into the space only when accompanied, and they were only allowed to observe and sniff the cheeses — not to taste or even handle them.
It was a blind tasting session involving over 265 judges: All labels or identifying features on the cheeses were taken off. Their task was to examine, smell, touch, and taste the samples — a challenging job given the large number of options — before selecting winners for gold, silver, and bronze awards based on characteristics such as scent, structure, consistency, taste, and "mouthfeel."
Only individuals recognized as "Super Gold" were selected for the glamorous "Super Jury" featuring 14 final cheese entries. The judges — and the public — learned the origins of the cheeses only after voting on each had concluded.
Paul Thomas, a cheese maker from Urstrom Kaese, located south of Berlin, cut into a blue cheese that was topped with cherries and marketed as having notes reminiscent of a Manhattan cocktail. After trying it, he remarked that he was "pleasantly surprised throughout most of the flavor experience."
"But right at the end, it leaves me with something just... it has a slightly unusual taste at the back of the tongue," he added.
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Experts acknowledge that selecting a winner is challenging. Although the end results from "caseiculture"—the processes of curdling, coagulating, cheddaring, and more involved in cheese production—can be evaluated based on factors such as skill and quality, taste remains subjective.
The winner of this year was a Swiss entry: a "spezial" Gruyère produced by the Vorderfultigen Mountain Dairy, located approximately 20 kilometers (12 miles) south of Bern, which received 85 points from the judges. The cheese, made from raw cow's milk, was left to drain overnight and then salted dry before being aged for over 18 months.
A smooth, flower-decorated "Crémeux des Aldudes aux fleurs" from the village of Etxaldia in the French Basque region came in second place, following a 9-month-old Swiss Appenzeller Edel-Würzig. Additional finalists represented Britain, Japan, the Netherlands, Slovakia, and the United States.
Numerous cheeses have received additional recognition: Over 20 were honored as top choices at the national or regional level — including best American, Basque-country, Japanese, or Ukrainian cheese. Additional awards were presented in specific categories like best cheddar, raw-milk, goat, or ewe cheese, or smoked varieties.
Although the U.S. state of Wisconsin is home to the World Championship Cheese Contest and a French competition determines the world's top cheesemonger, the organizers of the World Cheese Awards claim it is the biggest cheese-focused event globally. The contest originated in Britain, though Italy, Spain, and Norway have also hosted it.
Charlie Turnbull, head of the Academy of Cheese, brought his nose close to a round, soft, brownish-orange cheese that emits a strong odor due to Brevibacterium linens — "a relative of the bacteria found in teenage boys' shoes."
It's difficult," Turnbull remarked, slightly grimacing. However, he mentioned that after overcoming the odor, the cheese was delicious, pointing out "traces of fruit, plenty of meaty flavors, and a touch of ham broth.
"In the end, flavor surpasses all," he stated.
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